The Country Squire celebrates 50 years in style
Owner Iris Lennon (R) and daughter Lorraine Smith (L) pose for a photo. The Country Squire is a family institution. Photo by Trevor Normile
by Trevor Normile
The usual peace of the center garden was awash with echoes of dancing and singing from the Jester’s Court. A flood of people poured in and out of the restaurant, with satisfied patrons rubbing their full bellies at the delight of an evening well-served.
The Country Squire is known far and wide as a unique place to wind down and enjoy life. However, last weekend the business celebrated its 50th year, and excited customers wanted to do anything but relax. Owner and Scotland native Iris Lennon was unsurprised and yet totally pleased by the rush of people.
“A lot of folk out there dread going to work. I can’t imagine what that must feel like,” she said. Mrs. Lennon was doing her best to hold a conversation between seating clients in the busy restaurant.
“Every event is a milestone for us to share. We see anniversaries, class reunions. It’s great to see people get together and witness all of their milestones.”
Opening its doors in 1961, the Country Squire was the dream of a local man named Joe West. Lennon said the success of the business was due to West’s vision as well as perfect timing. The ‘Squire opened right before restaurant chains began taking customers away from private eateries.
Lennon purchased the Country Squire in 1993 after emigrating from Scotland in 1973. If it weren’t for a visit to the United States, Duplin County might have been much different. The future entrepreneur who dreamed of selling candy as a young girl nearly moved to New Zealand instead.
“I came over on a holiday to visit family and after I returned home, I thought to myself, you know, yanks aren’t that bad. And now this is home,” she said with a laugh.
In 50 years, Mr. West’s restaurant grew from a capacity of 76 to about 400. What was once primarily a steakhouse now
prepares, well, mostly steak, but a variety of poultry, pork and seafood as well. The signature “Kilt Buster” 72 oz. (that’s four and a half pounds) monster cut is meant to test the eater’s storage ability, and has become one of the Country Squire’s trademark dishes.
The building itself is beautiful synthesis of original and antique. The gift shop area was built from a 200 year-old house, while the rest was constructed from nigh ancient lumber from the surrounding countryside. Bay windows grace the walls separating walkways and dining areas. The glass in the oldest parts has started the slow drip as gravity takes its toll.
A sign on the Country Squire's entrance. The business celebrated its 50th year last weekend, with food, dance and song. Photo by Trevor Normile
Adorned in all parts are trinkets worthy of a small castle: coats of arms signify playful dignity; small knights keep watch eternally.
Also keeping watch over the eons are -some say- patrons of the past life. The Country Squire has long been rumored to be haunted. For the 50th anniversary, Stephen Lancaster and his Paranormal Investigation Team, dubbed the “P.I.T. Crew,” were available to give customers tours of the building.
Lancaster said that he believes the structure was certifiably haunted.
“I was using my infrared goggles (similar to night vision), and was just sitting in the cellar snapping pictures. In one photo, you could clearly see a small girl with long blonde hair,” he said.
The investigator also described an instance of a fellow crew member being saved from a nasty tumble into a hole (caused by remodeling) when something reached out and pushed the wandering camera man away from the abscess. Lancaster claims the whole incident was caught on video.
So, at least the ghosts are friendly.
In the classic photographic spirit, Lancaster uses 35mm film in order to capture photos which are more difficult to alter, making them easier to certify as authentic. After three more days of filming interviews in October, the crew will release a documentary on their findings.
The rest of the weekend’s event were less spooky and more focused on visitors celebrating the history of the establishment. Friday night brought a shag contest, in which dancers Steve and Susan Brock were the unchallenged contenders. The couple won a ribeye steak dinner for two.
Keeping things in full swing, the Squire hosted a number of events, including a book signing by local author Dr. Susan Whitfield, a steak-eating contest and a performance by the Barefoot Gypsies, a belly dancing troupe based in Kenansville.
The steak-eating contest was handily won by professional eater Dale Boone, current champion of the World League of Competitive Eating. Boone listed the difficulty of eating the 72 oz. steak (and various side dishes) as low to none. The taste however, was a very different story.
World League of Competitive Eating Champion Dale Boone shows of the empty plates used to carry the Kilt Buster 72 oz. steak. The challenge was part of the Country Squire's 50th birthday festivities. Photo by Trevor Normile
“The taste was incredible. It was tender and wonderful, I didn’t even need water to wash it down,” he said.
Boone, an Atlanta, Georgia native, has been eating for 11 years professionally. As he powered through the Kilt Buster, the devout devourer demonstrated his skill. He stood from his chair and kept his cool while the clock ticked town from the one hour time limit.
Although Boone ultimately won the $200 prize, two of his three competitors still managed to finish. The professional muncher had plans for the money- he’s donating it to a charity in India, where he often travels to compete and train.
The eater’s next big round is against the Japanese phenom, Takeru Kobayashi in Los Angeles.
A couple from Glauster, Virginia celebrated a milestone of their own at the Country Squire. Jill and Sid DoRego chose to return for their 10th wedding anniversary.
“We came out here the day before our wedding and it’s our 10th anniversary so we decide to come back,” Mrs. DoRego said. “It’s really neat, and still so charming. It’s really quaint.”
After 50 years, the Country Squire has gained a successful winery, gift shop, inn and entertainment hall, but the building, however unique (or haunted), is simply a place for the people to meet. Mrs. Lennon spoke on what the business’s birthday means to her.
“You stop and reflect. You don’t what choice you should make, this is what happened for me. I’ve been blessed, big thanks to the Lord up above me and thanks to the people that believed in me and gave me this opportunity.”
A beautiful fountain adorns the courtyard garden, characteristic of the unique style of the Country Squire. Photo by Trevor Normile
Contact Trevor at 910.285.2178 or at tjnormile@readcapefear.com.
